A Day’s Maintenance Work at Tarland Trails
After my successful stint as a race marshal at the Scottish Cross Country (SXC) event, I decided to dive deeper into the world of mountain biking. The next step was to join a trail maintenance, or ‘dig day’ at Tarland Trails in Aberdeenshire on 15 September. I had hoped this experience would give me new insights into what went on behind the scenes, and it did not disappoint. At this point, I would like to thank Craig Allison from 57North Adventures, who organised the transport from Aberdeen to the dig.
A mountain biker negotiates a curve at Tarland Trails, near Tarland, Aberdeenshire
The Journey Begins
Our group of about 10 enthusiasts set off early (just after 08:30 hrs), eager to contribute to the trails we love to ride. Upon arrival at Tarland Trails, we were greeted by the trail centre staff, including owner Chris Redmond, the visionary behind this wonderful place.
Getting To Work
The day's tasks were varied and hands-on. We found ourselves:
Smoothing out rough patches of track
Clearing weeds and trimming overhanging branches
Removing large stones on the one hand, and at other points, covering rocks too large to dislodge
It was hard work, involving constantly filling buckets with earth, moving these to where they required on the track, and then pounding this into the ground with soil flatteners where applicable; pruning trees, and trimming the edges of the path. As we progressed down the hill, it was great to look back up and admire our handiwork. Most important however, was the camaraderie among the volunteers. Plus, the break for homemade cake certainly helped keep our energy levels up!
The Reward: Riding the Trails
After we’d finished our maintenance work, early in the afternoon, we got our just reward, namely the opportunity to ride the newly maintained tracks. This is where things got interesting for me. While the more experienced riders took on the more challenging runs, I quickly became aware of my lack of expertise on these trails. The whole experience also settled another question beyond any shadow of a doubt, i.e. the limitations of a hybrid bike.
A Lesson Learned: Bike Choice Matters
When it comes to mountain biking, a hybrid bike simply won't cut it. I always knew this, but on the other hand but had ridden mine successfully around the trails at Linn of Dee, near Braemar, so was curious to see where its limits were. In short, anything more technical than a gravel forest track requires the suspension travel, wider tyres and frame geometry of a proper mountain bike. I found this out the hard way. No harm done other than dented pride, and fortunately my teenage offspring weren’t around to witness the debacle, otherwise it would be all over Instagram/TikTok/both by now! But it was a salutary lesson!
Reflection and Future Plans
Despite the unfortunate incident at the start of a Blue + trail, the day was a fantastic experience. It provided:
A deeper insight into the growing world of mountain biking
The opportunity to see Tarland Trails firsthand and meet the owner, Chris Redmond
A great sense of accomplishment from contributing to the trails’ maintenance
I'm already looking forward to participating in more dig days. As my riding technique improves (and I invest in a proper mountain bike!), I hope to tackle more complex runs. I have in fact since that day tested state of the art mountain bikes on similar trails, and the experience was completely different. But that’s another story…….
Conclusion
From race marshalling to trail maintenance work, my journey into the world of mountain biking continues. The Tarland Trails dig day was more than just about fixing tracks - it was about community, learning, and pushing personal boundaries. Whether you're a seasoned rider or a curious newbie like me, I highly recommend getting involved in your local mountain biking scene. Just remember: bring the right bike!
Race Marshal Experience
My Experience Volunteering as a Race Marshal for Scottish Cross Country Mountain Bike Event at Comrie Croft was a fascinating first insight into the world of mountain biking - this sport in Scotland that is enjoying exponential growth in popularity in Scotland.
The SXC Event took place at Comrie Croft on Sunday 1st September 2024
As someone with passion for mountain biking, I have long sought a way to get more involved in the scene. Mountain biking is not only a thrilling sport but also a significant contributor to adventure tourism, with Scotland offering some of the best mountain biking experiences in the world. The racing scene plays a crucial role in its development, as it brings together enthusiasts, professionals, and amateurs alike, while promoting interest in local trails such as Comrie Croft in Perthshire or Tarland Trails in Aberdeenshire. As with everything else in life the only way to learn about this dynamic sport is to gain first hand experience; and what better way to get involved than to marshal at an event?
On Sunday, September 1st, the Scottish Cross Country Series (SXC) hosted its Scottish Championship races, which was my perfect opportunity. This all-day event took place at Comrie Croft. There were several races, covering all abilities and stages, from novices to the elite national championships, with top level racers taking part. Without sufficient volunteers, such events would be impossible to run. I was on the mailing list, so when the call went out, I decided to volunteer.
The Role of a Marshal
As a marshal, I was tasked with a few key responsibilities, including:
Stationing at a Designated Spot: This sounds mundane – and it was! But also essential. Standing at a given spot for two hours while the race was in progress. Armed with two flags – one red and one yellow – I had to be vigilant and prepared to signal any potential hazards to racers as they approached my point. A yellow flag signalled a hazard and that caution was required. A red flag on the other hand meant that the race had to be stopped, and all riders had to dismount.
Maintaining Track Security: Even though the course was clearly taped off, it was my job to ensure that walkers and recreational mountain bikers did not stray onto the track. Despite all the measures taken, I had to politely inform members of the public on several occasions that the path was closed because a race was in progress.
Communication: Effective communication was key to the smooth operation of the event. All messages were relayed through the chief marshal. This ensured that the entire team remained on the same page and that any problems were quickly addressed.
Reflections on the Experience
Volunteering as a marshal not only gave me a closer look at and deeper understanding of just how much work goes on behind the scenes, in order to put on a race like this. For example, I did not know that without the requisite number of marshals a race simply cannot go ahead. Or that race organisers are responsible to a court of law to say that they had said number, and that they had all been briefed regarding their roles. It is not just a formfilling exercise. But besides standing for hours in the same spot, while simultaneously keeping a keen eye on the race and ensuring no-one strayed onto the track, another unwritten ‘task’ for a marshal was to shout encouragement as riders went past.
The camaraderie among all those involved in the day – race organisers, marshals, riders, caterers, family members who had come to watch – gave an insight into just how much of a community spirit exists within the mountain biking world in Scotland.
For someone like me who wants to know more about the mountain biking scene, getting involved as a marshal provided a fantastic first insight into the sport. I came away from the Scottish Cross Country Championship with a wealth of insight and a newfound appreciation for the community that makes these races possible.
Conclusion
Mountain biking in Scotland is more than just a sport; it is an essential part of the adventure tourism sector that draws people from all over the world. Racing is a key element in this, and events like the Scottish Cross Country Series highlight the importance of organization and volunteer support. As I continue to write about mountain biking, I now have a deeper understanding of the sport, not just from a rider's perspective, but from behind the scenes as well.
Finally, I’d like to express my heartfelt thanks to Kate Jackson, the Safeguarding Lead for the event, who organised my place on the marshals’ rota, and who gave me a lift back into Perth at the end of the day, so I could get the bus back to Aberdeen.
Kawarau Bridge Bungee Jump, Queenstown, NZ
I recently fulfilled a lifetime’s dream to go to New Zealand on holiday. Having seen numerous TV programmes about the adventure tourism in general, but in relation to New Zealand in particular, I was well aware that this was the place to go to do a bungy jump. I had done one years before, in a car park in Aberdeen, which was really rather tame by comparison. I wanted to up the anté!
The bungy jump was pioneered by two New Zealanders, AJ Hackett, and Henry van Asch who, on a mission to test the resilience of their ropes, climbed to the top of the Eiffel Tower at night, and the following morning jumped off the top. They were arrested and released five minutes later, but the phenomenon of bungy jumping was born. And so it was that the first bungy jump centre was opened at the Kawarau Bridge, over the Kawarau Gorge, near Queenstown. This is the spiritual home of the bungy jump, and rightly so. The water of the Kawarau is fast flowing and dark turquoise blue in colour, the valley covered in evergreens, and on the day I went, the temperature was about 30 degrees centigrade.
The bridge is 43 metres above the river, and you have 3 options when it comes to the moment you want the spring to kick in and pull you back up; stay a metre or two clear, go right down to the surface of the water, or go for the ‘dunking’. I chose the second option, as I have heard of numerous jumpers who have had problems with their retinas following a ‘dunking.’ The jump itself is a leap of faith. You don’t have time to think. You just have to jump. The man in front of me in the queue lost his nerve at the last minute, and I was determined that I was not going to do the same, so when I came to the platform and got the ‘good to go’, I simply focussed on a point in the distance, and launched myself off. Whatever you do, DO NOT LOOK DOWN!!!
It was a massive adrenalin kick when I jumped off. You just have to hope that this rope will kick in, because you are in big trouble if it doesn’t! Your stomach starts churning, and there’s a rush of blood to the head. And I must say, it was a bit of a relief with the rope did kick in. Three seconds is a long time in complete freefall! Once you’ve completed your jump, a dingy comes to unharness you, and then you can go back up to the centre. Once you reach that point the exhilaration is beyond what words can describe, and the reason why it is worth every cent of the NZ$220 to do it!
It was a massively successful day out. The centre itself is more than just about the bungy jump. There is the opportunity to take zipwire rides, or simply sip drinks on the viewing platform, and watch other fruitcakes do their thing! Once you’ve earned the bragging rights however, there is the opportunity to purchase proof of your foolhardiness. You can buy a combination of video, photographic evidence, or both. You also get the T-Shirt. Literally!
The Kawarau Bridge Bungee Jump, near Queenstown, NZ: the ultimate adrenalin rush
Ride The North 2024: The 100 Mile Tour of Angus
It finally happened. August 24th rolled around, and it was time to head to Arbroath for my date with destiny. This was the first time I’d ridden 100 miles in one day since I was 16 years old, (over 40 years ago), and although I was confident I could do it, the ‘hundred’ was a milestone I needed to break. I’d like to say a huge ‘THANK YOU’ to those who sponsored me. I haven’t yet closed the JustGiving funding page, (4 September 2024), but to date I have raised £245, which my employer Morrisons will match fund, taking the total to £490 plus Gift Aid.
The Route of the Ride The North Challenge 2024: Tour of Angus 100 Mile Bike Ride
With over 2000 riders taking part, there was a real carnival atmosphere to the day, right from the start, and at every 10-mile checkpoint (which also served as a refuelling point, where you could either just refill your water bottle or go the whole hog and go for sausage rolls, home bakes, the works, depending on what you wanted out of the day. The buzz at the sea front, with riders chatting in groups, some who were along for a fun day out, others who were serious racers out to put in a PB (personal best), and who had obviously taken part in many, many such events. The bikes and the gear reflected the intentions of the participants. There was a great reception every 10 miles, where you could take a comfort break, get your checkpoint card stamped, water bottle filled, and bike serviced if necessary. I found out later getting the checkpoint card stamped was optional and would have kept going for the sake of a better time, but there was something to be said for soaking up the atmosphere at the pitstops. For those wanting to make the event more of a social event more than anything else, there was the opportunity to stop for coffee, sausage rolls, home bakes, and more. In fact, it would probably have been possible to put on more calories than you burned off over the hundred miles. But for those not concerned with time over the distance, it certainly made it an extremely social occasion.
Anyone expecting this to be an easy ride was going to sorely disappointed. First of all, there were howling gales all day. It seemed that every way you turned, the wind had taken a new direction, so you were cycling directly into a headwind, no matter what. There were some absolute stinkers on this route. I did some of my training on the road from Cock Bridge to Tomintoul (the highest village in Scotland) and there were some ascents on this route that seemed every bit as gruelling as anything on that road. One look at an Ordnance Survey map will tell you the two don’t compare (243 m 645m). The difference may be that on this route the ascents are short, sharp shocks to the system, compared to the long, draw out grinds of the Tomintoul road. To my surprise, even some seasoned road bikers decided enough was enough, and opted to push their bikes up the hills. My pride would not allow me to do it, however, and despite having to snake from side to side on some of the worst stretches, I made it without having to get off and walk. I will never consider the rolling Angus countryside as described on VistScotland in the same light again! Not for nothing were parts of this route (most notably the stretches Linrathen to Cortachy, and Menmuir to Edzell) described as the Highway to Hell (probably with an intentional nod to Kirriemuir’s most famous resident, the sadly departed Bon Scott, but more of that in another post).
Mission Accomplished!
The finishing line at the end of the Ride the North Challenge 2024 Tour of Angus 100 Mile Bike Ride.
Never was the long descent to the finish line such a tonic to see. Those black and white chequered flags, at either side of the road and the word FINISH in block capitals was an absolute tonic! With the final stamp on the card a great ride was finally at an end.
As a final thought. For me personally, I’d broken the ‘hundred’ milestone. That was hugely important! Did I get the fantastic time I’d been hoping for? No, I didn’t. However, there were stops ever 10 miles; much of this was over extremely gruelling terrain, there was a howling gale blowing all day, and intermittent rain for much of it. Am I happy with the day? Absolutely! Bring on the next hundred miler!
Linn of Dee: Wild Swimming’s Hidden Gem
Wild swimming – taking a dip in the sea, river, or lake – is a 'must' for any self-respecting outdoor and adventure enthusiasts! At this particular spot, not even the most severe cold shower imaginable can begin to compare with the total shock to the system from jumping into the water at near freezing point. Don’t stay in any longer than two minutes at a time. Furthermore, the sharp rocky underfoot makes it tricky to get out, so treat with respect! This is NOT for the faint-hearted.
A dip in the rock pool at the Linn of Dee, west of Braemar, is an invigorating experience, but not for the faint-hearted!
Welcome to the Linn of Dee, on the idyllic Royal Deeside Estate. Set in a steep gorge, the pool itself is an oasis of calm beneath a gurgling waterfall. All around, as far as the eye can see, is the emerald green of pine trees, and a carpet of purple heather. It was first made famous by Queen Victoria in the mid-nineteenth century, who wished to escape the hectic pace of London life for somewhere more peaceful. She immediately fell in love with the place, and it's easy to see why. Did Her Maj go wild swimming? Who knows? The film Mrs Brown, starring Judy Dench as Queen Victoria and Billy Connolly as Mr Brown, an Estate servant, with whom she is alleged to have had an illicit affair, portrays her in a very different light from the prudish reputation history has bestowed upon her! If she did, this would have been an ideal spot!
Today, outdoor enthusiasts visiting the area are spoilt for choice if wild swimming’s their thing. For river dips, check out the inlets on the Dee at the Cambus o’ May and Potarch Bridges respectively; if you prefer a lake swim, then head for Loch Kinord, near Ballater. But the Linn of Dee is a real hidden gem.
Loch Kinord, a much loved wild swimming spot near Ballater, Royal Deeside.
And what a delight! What a hugely invigorating experience for those brave enough to try it! It really does have every nerve end tingling, which perhaps explains why it is so addictive! Linn of Dee is not on most Wild Swimming lists due to its location, but in many ways that’s a blessing, especially considering how overcrowded other spots have become. But if you’re staying in nearby Braemar, you’d do well to hire a bike and head out this way. Only six miles from the village, it’s an experience you’ll never forget!
How One Travel Writer Survived the Pandemic
Kathi Kammleitner, Scotland Travel Expert and Owner of ‘Watch Me See WILD FOR SCOTLAND’
I recently interviewed travel writer Kathi Kammleitner, about the impact of COVID on her business.
Her website ‘Watch Me See WILD FOR SCOTLAND’ is a lot more than just a travel blog about Scotland. It is a travel planning itinerary service offering both ready-made and bespoke travel itineraries, as well as a podcasting stream that hosts in-depth interviews and immersive story telling from places all over Scotland. It also hosts top tips for places to go and attractions to visit, categorised by region, and according to your interest.
In 2020 COVID struck, and like everyone else in the tourism industry, she was hit badly. In fact, 7 out of her 8 income streams dried up overnight! She wrote about her experiences at the time, (see below for a link to the original article) and last month I caught up with her to ask her more about just how she had managed to survive in an industry where so many had gone under. This is the transcript of that interview. It makes for inspiring reading!
AN: You wrote in a blog article in 2020 that 7 out of your 8 income streams dried up overnight! That’s absolutely unbelievable. So, you obviously had to diversify. What influenced your decision regarding which direction you would take?
KK: I did an audit of everything I had, all my talents and resources. It turned out I had an awful lot more than I thought at face value. All the years I spent building my own business, my digital marketing skills etc. - these were all transferable to other work as well. I was in fact sitting on a treasure trove of untapped raw material that I could repackage to new markets in the format they wanted. It didn’t have to be brand new material all the time. I could use what I already had, take the parts that different markets wanted, and reinvent myself that way. It took a lot of research to do it, but you work with what you have.
AN: In what other ways has your work changed?
KK: My work has changed for good. My marketing was traditionally aimed at the international market, for people planning a visit to Scotland. It’s starting to recover, but it’s not the same as it was and probably never will be, however it’s important to show up consistently for my audience to earn and keep their trust.
I guess the biggest change with the pandemic was that the drop-off of some income streams has definitely made it more important to stick to your guns when it comes to charging fees for your work. And maybe it has even made it clearer to businesses who enquire about my blog to see that I'm a business just like them.
More broadly speaking, there’s no denying that the whole tourism industry has changed for good. It’s an exciting time to be part of that change, as it’s an opportunity to shape it, but you have to be able to spot opportunities as and when they arise.
AN: What particular challenges did you face when putting these into practice?
KK: Google is constantly changing the algorithms for search ranking, making it more difficult for bloggers like me to attract organic search traffic. It is therefore now more important than ever to have a working relationship with an ad network that understands the technical issues that I and others like me face. This applies especially for SEO. From that point of view, my work has got more technical than it was prior to the pandemic.
It is also vital to be part of a community. Being a solopreneur was sometimes a lonely place to be during the pandemic. Other travel bloggers are not your rivals, but a community of like-minded people who can have each other’s backs. It was – and remains – vitally important to be able to talk to someone who understands the struggles you face yourself.
AN: What’s the most important ‘take home lesson?’
KK: Above all else, you have to think on your feet! And fast! I love what I do, but there is no such thing as a safe source of income.
AN: Kathi, thanks very much for your time, it’s been a pleasure talking to you!
KK: You’re welcome! All the best.
You can read Kathi’s 2020 blog article here.
Small Ship Cruises
The traditional cruise model is way past its sell-by date. It’s time for a complete rethink. For the sake of the environment, local communities who serve them, the passengers, and the industry itself
A typical small ship catamaran of the type that is now replacing the more traditional liners that can berth in exccess of 1000 passengers
The cruise has always been a well-loved form of holiday; it’s all inclusive, it’s novel and there has always been a certain romance about it. However, as a form of travel it is not without its critics, and with good reason. Cruise ships have been responsible for devastating marine pollution; cruise companies’ employment practices have bordered on slave trade in some cases, and their concern for the local populations and economies of the locations they visit has been scant. As the UNWTO put in its report on cruise tourism in south-east Asia, the three pillars of sustainable tourism are:
Environmentally friendly practices
Support for protection of cultural and natural heritage; and
Tangible economic and social benefits to local people in host destinations
It is clear that many of the players in the industry have routinely failed on all criteria. Friends of the Earth regularly assesses the major cruise companies, compiles a summary of the findings in tabular format, and it doesn’t make for complementary reading! Furthermore, in the aftermath of the COVID pandemic, tourism will never be able to return to the status quo ante.
The whole cruise industry will have to completely rethink its entire way of operation if it is to survive. Can it do it?
It is time for a complete rethink of the entire model. And there are examples out there. Examples that get away from the ‘floating Vegas’ model and instead offer a truly memorable experience, that allows passengers to get right up close with Mother Nature in a way that doesn’t harm the environment.
Small ship cruises range from 8 – 250 (usually between 50 – 100) and have an emphasis on luxury or adventure, according to taste. For the truly adventurous there are even sailing ship options. You can go sea kayaking, swimming in the sea, or scuba diving with sea turtles; the more sedate can sunbathe on deck, G&T in hand.
Onshore experiences are co-ordinated in advance with local businesses, ensuring the local community benefits from the visit, and the passengers enjoy a truly authentic local experience they will remember for the rest of their lives!
The best thing about cruise experiences like these is that you are surrounded by like-minded passengers; they will all have done their research beforehand, filtered out the completely depersonalised behemoths that are the 1000+ berth liners.
There is a community spirit about your holiday simply not present on board a traditional large ship. This, as much as anything else, is likely to contribute to the truly unforgettable experience that a cruise ship holiday can bring. See the links for companies who offer the real deal.
The traditional, impersonal, floating casino type of cruise is well past its sell-by date. It would be best for the whole industry to recognise this, treat their passengers, the natural environment, and local businesses with the respect they deserve, and offer a truly amazing experience! These are the companies who will survive. And rightly so.
https://www.artisantravel.co.uk/interests/small-ship-cruises
Mountain biking in Scotland? Not with the bus!
Not for the faint-hearted: mountain bike races can be high-risk, high-endurance events
I’ve written about this before and make no apologies for doing so again. Scotland needs to up its game in terms of public transport.[i] Last time I wrote about how there no public transport to any of the ski resorts, except Aviemore; but there’s another problem. It potentially affects anyone - from those seeking a pleasant day out to a serious adrenalin rush, and on one of the most, if not the most, iconic of all tourist routes in the country. That is, the same bus company fails to run coaches that can transport bike
Mountain biking is a fabulous outdoor pursuit – if you can just get there to the starting point in the first place.
This represents a severe barrier to those from Aberdeen who would like to come out and spend the day cycling in the hills.
How anyone at Stagecoach headquarters can think this makes good business sense is quite simply beyond me.
Mountain biking in Scotland: A rarefied experience
An old school friend of mine and I recently decided to head up to Royal Deeside for a day’s cycling and wild swimming at the Linn of Dee. We put our bikes on the back of his car, and off we went.
The Deeside Valley was made famous by Queen Victoria. She made it her holiday home, far from London’s madding crowds.
The further up the Dee Valley you go, the more aware you are of the area’s connections with the Royal Family. This is, of course, where Balmoral is situated.
The Linn of Dee is reported to have been the monarch’s favourite picnic spot, and it’s not difficult to see why.
With an iconic bridge crossing a spectacular gorge, which allows one of the first waterfalls in the Dee pass through it, the picturesque spot would have made the perfect setting for a Jane Austen novel.
The iconic bridge over the Linn of Dee, not far from Braemar
You can almost imagine Victoria coming here with her gamekeeper, Mr Brown (if the rumours are to be believed!)
It is also the perfect spot for a wild swim, as long as you are ready to brace yourself for an extremely cold dunking to get started!
The pools at the Linn of Dee are spectacularly beautiful, being at the bottom of a waterfall, just big enough to swim about in, and enclosed enough to ensure you won’t get swept away by the current.
The area around the Linn of Dee also offers brilliant, breathtaking cycling country, with a choice of several mountain bike routes, graded according to difficulty.
Routes include the Linn of Dee and Beinn Mheadhoin circular trail, the out and back route to Càrn a’ Mahaim, as well as the point-to-point track to the Lairig Ghru.
Càrn a’ Mahaim Trail
This list is by no means exhaustive, and those interested should visit the Best Mountain Biking Trails in Braemar page of the All Trails website for further options.
Getting to Royal Deeside: A common nonsense
There is however one fly in the ointment for those who come from further afield to take part in these pedal-powered pleasures: Access to a private car is a necessity.
It used to be the case that cyclists could put their bikes in the luggage compartments of Stagecoach buses. (You could, for example, get off at Braemar and cycle the five miles (eight kilometres) to Linn of Dee and have plenty of time in the day, and energy in the legs, to explore the area.)
Not now. Stagecoach, in their wisdom, have taken all coach-type buses off this route and replaced them with buses that have no luggage storage.
The result is that no bicycles can be carried on any of the buses along that route.
Braemar, the last village in the Valley, and the nearest point of civilisation to the Linn of Dee, has just been voted the best place in Scotland for a staycation.
Yet if your plans for said staycation include going mountain biking in the most beautiful countryside in the world, but, for whatever reason, you don’t have access to a private car, you have the following choices:
you can hire a bike in Ballater, 18 miles (29 km) away in Deeside Valley, or
leave your bike at home and miss out on the experience.
This must have the potential to negatively affect hundreds of people every year.
It is all so stupid. It never used to be like this. And it is so easy to fix.
It used to be the case that you simply loaded your bike on to the coach at whatever point you boarded. Simple. Why the change?
Beinn Mheadhoin
Try to imagine the scenario somewhere else. Go on a cycling tour in Germany, for example, It would simply be inconceivable to turn up at a bus station only to be told that the bus couldn’t transport bikes. (As it happens, Royal Deeside is a favourite with German tourists, so what on earth does Stagecoach think it is playing at?)
I wrote to both Stagecoach and VisitScotland (the tourist board) to ask for an explanation but never received a response from either.
In the event, I personally was not affected, as I had access to my friend’s car. But it was a timely reminder about those who don’t have that luxury.
It really defies belief! They need to sort this now!
Here endeth my rant.
If you are able, please go and enjoy the mountain biking, and wild swimming at the Linn of Dee … It’s too good to miss out on!
[i] This article first appeared as a ‘Good Tourism Insight’ in the Good Tourism Blog on 11 July 2023
The Sustainability ‘Say-Do-Gap’
Bali women performing a traditional dance. Paying lip service to indigenous people’s interests will no longer cut it as tourism rebuilds post-COVID
The traditional tourism model is no longer sustainable. Indeed, it never was. The last three years have brought that reality into stark relief.
Ideally tourism should be rebuilt from the bottom up. When tourists visit remote destinations that are home to indigenous populations, it is especially important that these groups are central to the process at every step. Where this is happening, indigenous tourism is highly successful.
Offbeat Tracks, based in India, for example, is a travel company that offers only responsible travel options that fully involve local people (as far as I can tell).
The social enterprise Red Rocks Rwanda and its affiliated NGO Red Rocks Initiative for Sustainable Development promote the same in Rwanda. Great examples aside, more could and must be done to give this model traction.[1]
A war on two fronts: Survival and sustainability
The COVID pandemic decimated the tourism industry worldwide. OECD statistics speak for themselves:
An estimated 174 million jobs lost in 2020, and
80% drop in tourism in 2020 compared to 2019 (which is eight times the drop in tourism compared to 2009 during the financial crash). By comparison, the level of unemployment or underemployment for the entire European Union was 27.5 million in May 2022.
As the service providers who survived started to bounce back, it was widely recognised that the status quo ante was no longer sustainable; that it was time to find a completely different, more holistic model. The industry was (and remains) left with two seemingly conflicting goals — to get back to break-even (and then profitability) quickly, and to be more sustainable — that are, on closer examination, mutually complementary.
Firstly, tourists, understandably nervous about travelling again, were much more reluctant to part with their hard-earned cash. The pandemic had caused a huge amount of stress worldwide and job losses were widespread, not just confined to the tourism sector.
Gorillas in Rwanda: done responsibly, a gorilla trek can be a truly unforgettable experience - way beyond what money can buy
For example, in Rwanda, the government shut the borders in March 2020, and ordered the closure of all but the most essential businesses.
Given that tourism was the country’s largest foreign exchange earner, accounting for 14.9% of GDP, generated 90,000 jobs, and represented 13% of total employment, this was a massive hit for the economy. As restrictions slowly began to lift, and people began to make plans to travel again, they wanted a lot more ‘bang for their buck’.
On the other hand, service providers, who bore the brunt of the worldwide downturn, were expected to change to sustainable business models across all of sustainability’s dimensions, even as they dealt with the grim financial one. However, as we can see from the trend towards luxury agritourism, unique experiences and lasting memories are now more important than ever (relative to bling) to those who can afford them.
Destinations with indigenous populations are well placed. Red Rocks’ brand of community- and nature-based agritourism, for example, is as unique and rare and memorable an experience as the high-priced gorilla trekking nearby; a reason to stay a little longer in Rwanda to meet the locals.
This is where the model of economic interdependence comes into play; “the mutual dependence of the participants in an economic system who trade in order to obtain the products they cannot produce efficiently for themselves”.
What do indigenous tourism destinations need?
For tourism to truly thrive, it has to be of benefit to all concerned.
Where this is the case, visitors feel welcome and have genuine, memorable, and possibly even life-changing experiences. Instead of simply asking the question ‘what do customers want?’ there should be a greater emphasis on ‘what destinations need’. In this way, tourism can support indigenous populations, creating a win-win. Again, looking at the Rwandan example, the government has introduced measures to promote domestic tourism, established heavy promotions to attract international tourists, and set up credit incentives for the private sector.
This encourages local service providers to cater to their respective niche markets, be they nature enthusiasts, eco-conscious travellers, cultural explorers, or individuals seeking meaningful connections with local communities.
The ‘Batwa Experience’’ Research by Wani, M.S., Bhat, M.S., Alam, A. et al. shows that indigenous populations view tourism opportunities in terms of a ‘Social Exchange Transaction’, wherein any proposed developments will be looked upon favourably to the extent that overall perceived benefits outweigh the negative effects. Of particular importance are when indigenous people feel involved in the process, their traditions are respected, and their economy and lifestyles benefit from visitors.
Ben Sherman, Chairman of the World Indigenous Tourism Alliance (WINTA), wants to see greater investment in indigenous tourism, which he says is largely underdeveloped. In an interview with Cultural Survival, he points to the exceptions that prove his point, namely the Ktunaxa First Nation Canadians, Aboriginal Australians, and Māori New Zealanders, who have invested. Where indigenous tourism is well developed, as in these places, it is highly successful.
A Ktunaxa First Nation Canadian
Indigenous tourism’s interest-action disparity
However, despite increased interest in indigenous community-based experiences among tourists and tour operators alike, there remains relatively little action.
This is a problem for sustainable tourism more generally when it comes to bookings: The ‘sustainability say-do gap’ as described by Good Tourism Institute.
Ways to overcome this, they say, include:
Making it easier for prospective clients to understand the benefits of choosing more sustainable options, which ultimately comes down to better marketing and communications, and
More competitive pricing.
Word is getting out, however. Tour operators do seem to be getting the message. There is an increase in the number of companies that will offer only packages that use independent and locally-owned (as well as environmentally-friendly) accommodation, tours, and transport options that offer truly authentic experiences.
For their part, Greg Bakunzi sums up the Red Rocks approach as follows:
“[It] stems from the conviction that by harmonising human and natural resources, we lay the cornerstone for a developmental journey rooted in sustainability.
“We forge a connection that bridges the realms of responsible tourism and enduring conservation, nurturing a relationship between our visitors and our destination.
“This synergy fuels our mission to cultivate a profound alliance between conservation and tourism, fostering community development.”
This, and much more besides, must continue in order to keep up the momentum towards a better model for all destinations with indigenous populations.
[1] This article first appeared as a Good Tourism Insight in The Good Tourism Blog on 15 August 2023
Revenge Tourism, Marketing and Useful Resources
Revenge Tourism
Who has heard the term ‘Revenge Tourism’? I certainly hadn’t, until recently. When you think of the Roaring Twenties, you probably think of the carefree lifestyle, the societal reaction to the horrors of the First World War and that other pandemic almost exactly 100 years ago, the Spanish Flu. Fast forward a century, and Revenge Tourism is the name given to the expected upturn in the tourism market, in particular the adventure tourism sector, as more destinations get the all-clear. It refers to consumers’ desire to get their revenge on the pandemic[1], in much the same way as society was determined to return to the good life a hundred years ago. This comes from three factors, namely:
Attitudes to travel
Financial resilience
Pent-up demands to travel[2]
A waterfall tumbling into Lake Manapouri, New Zealand
This reflects data elsewhere throughout the tourism sector, as safari tourism companies offer tailor-made packages, with their sustainability and responsibility credentials heavily advertised (See Bespoke Tours and Travel, Best View Safaris, TOFTigers and others). It further reflects the fact that companies that wish to survive will need to offer something unique, situation-specific, and sustainable.
Marketing, Preventing Greenwashing
Whether the aim is to build adventure tourism, or a staycation the key is a unique offering, and the best way to provide that is to offer a unique story of your brand, and make sure you are not greenwashed. As far as this first objective is concerned, it may well be worth commissioning a short video clip, which you can post on your social media. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so what about a 5 – 10-minute moving picture? In order not to get greenwashed, there are lots of useful resources giving guidance on credible certification for the sector. Follow it, display the credentials prominently, get your staff well trained in its requirements; it will be worth the investment! According to research done by SPIKE Marketing, the most affluent group in society (the 50 to 59-year-olds) are the ones most likely to travel again, they are most likely to spend the same or more on their holidays as before the pandemic, and they are most likely to be loyal to their previous provider if they had a good experience with them! Enjoy the Roaring (Twenty) Twenties!
Useful Resources
Confederation of British Industry Report on the Market Potential for Tourism in Europe https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/tourism/adventure-tourism/adventure-tourism/market-potential
TOFTigers: Sustainable Travel: 6 Ways to Build Back Better https://www.toftigers.org/blog-post/sustainable-travel-6-ways-to-build-back-better/
G Adventures: G for Good. Lots of advice on responsible travel, child welfare, community partnership, and much more. https://www.gadventures.com/about-us/why-travel-with-gadventures/#g-for-good
[1] Own emphasis
[2] Taken from a video interview with Roy Barker of SPIKE Marketing: https://vimeo.com/513349609#
Adventure Tourism: What is it, why is it popular?
A mountain biker tackling a mountain trail
Adventure tourism is described as a tourism trip that includes at least two of the following three elements - physical activity, the natural environment, and cultural immersion. It often involves risk and some skill from the tourist. Adventure tourism is a very large tourism segment and consists of many niche markets. Within the sector, there is an important distinction between soft and hard adventure travel.
Two paddleborders enjoying a calm mountain lake
Soft adventure travel is relatively safe and hardly requires skills and experience. Some examples include backpacking, birdwatching, camping, canoeing, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, safaris, sailing and surfing or papddleboarding.
Hard adventure travel is riskier and requires more skills and experience. Examples include safaris, caving, rock climbing and trekking.
There is very often a cross-over with the Action or Extreme Sports sector. While there is not necessarily any tourism element to the latter, there very often is, and they both challenge participants to go beyond their comfort zone.
Rock climbing: Not for those who wish to remain within their comfort zone!
There are many benefits
There are many reasons why adventure tourism is good for you, and why the market has grown in recent times. In terms of the benefits for well-being, the World Expeditions website lists nine:
Time outdoors reduces stress. Research has shown that nature experiences, even of a short duration reduce stress.
Nature makes exercise easier. It can’t be much easier to get on a bike or go for a forest walk. There is a spectrum as well, that goes right the way to climbing Mount Kilimanjaro.
Nature can rejuvenate the soul. Especially living in the city, it is too easy to lose touch with the smaller things that make a difference – for example hearing the call of the lark at dawn when out wild camping.
It can give a sense of accomplishment. This is especially true if you have set yourself target in advance. That sense of ‘Yes! I did it!’ is worth more than money than buy!
It increases self-awareness. Ironically, stepping into the unknown, taking a certain level of risk, can leave the participant more relaxed as a result.
It can make you smarter. One research study carried out with a control group performed brain scans before and after exercise. The results showed across the group that the participants displayed greater and more focused activity in the prefrontal cortex after exercise than they did before.
You can forge new friendships. Adventure travel can often involve spending long periods of time at extremely close quarters, and you may well rely on each other to overcome obstacles. This time together and sense of joint achievement can be the basis for forming very close friendships – ones that will last for life.
You can learn new skills. It matters not what you learn. You could learn orienteering skills, how to cook local produce, even the basics of a foreign language! Learning something new will form part of the adventure tourism holiday, which will be especially appealing to those who like to go outside their comfort zone.
You can know you’re making a difference if you travel ethically. This of course applies to all tourism, but especially to adventure tourism, as environmentally friendly travel (e.g., cycling) will very likely form part of the package itself.
Why Is It Growing?
So why is this sector growing in popularity? Alex Stickley, at Adventure Bucket List connects it with the rise in the popularity of action and extreme sports. As already mentioned, they both involve going outside your comfort zone. The question is merely to what extent. This ties in with the rapid growth of technology, which means that means lessons in these sports are available on YouTube, and ‘bragging rights’ photos are available on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or any other medium.
Change in our relationship with nature: in the past, nature was viewed as something that had to be tamed, to be conquered. As Stickley has observed, this has fortunately changed and that today’s adventure tourist has, above all a desire to see, observe, be at one with the beauty of nature, rather than conquer it.
Greater access to remote areas: many tourists today tourist will want to get right away from the ‘madding crowd’, and for every tourist who wants to sign for a luxury cruise, there is likely to be another who wants to get away from it all, go wild camping, or fishing in the middle of the outback. This is made all the easier as we can learn about anywhere in the world via online tour guides, so it is possible to be at least a little bit clued up in advance.
‘Narcissism and The Selfie Generation’: Stickley refers to what he calls ‘GoPro Narcissism’.[1] The need to push personal limits has always been there and it is human nature to invent ever new ways to push this to the limit. The world would be a boring place without such imagination; what is new is the desire to share the action
footage on social media. The bragging rights, shared on Facebook or YouTube, earned by your bungee jump from the Europa Bridge in Austria, are worth a thousand times any photo snap or story told when you get home afterwards, and, done well, it may even go viral! The self-affirmation involved in sharing such footage is obvious. There is no doubt the adventure tourism market will continue to grow.
The CBI advises companies who want to enter this sector to focus on a specific niche market. It is easier to distinguish yourself from your competitors and attract a specific target group. Inform yourself about the niches available in tourism, to be able to make a clear choice. CBI offers an infographic, which gives a clear overview on all segments and niche markets in tourism. This is a good place to start.
[1] GoPro is the brand name of a type of extreme sports camera, the type that snowboarders typically attach to their helmets in order to get the most extreme footage of their exploits, including any crashes. Hence the term GoPro Narcissism is taken to mean roughly ‘a complete indifference to danger displayed by those who engage in extreme sports.’
Lack of Access to Skiing in Scotland
A skier at the top of his game, enjoying the best of the snow
I love skiing, although I have not been able to get up to the slopes for some time. I was inspired to write this after significant snow falls, because while those conditions may sound cold and miserable to readers used to warmer climes, all I really wanted to do was go skiing. But it was impossible.
I live in Aberdeen in the northeast of Scotland. Aberdeen is approximately a two-hour drive from the nearest Scottish ski resort. Scotland has five ski resorts that attract tourists from all over the world. There are three in the east, and two in the western Highlands. The breathtaking scenery at all five is really something to behold. Scotland’s ski resorts are as follows: Glenshee; The Lecht; The Cairngorms; Glencoe; and The Nevis Resort. All five offer the comprehensive range of quality services that anyone would expect from a Scottish ski resort, including:
● A full range of slopes rated from green to black (something for everybody);
● Ski and snowboarding equipment hire;
● Opportunities to learn how to ski or snowboard; and
● Excellent catering facilities.
They also each have their unique attractions. However, there is one major problem with them all: a lack of accessibility.
Scottish ski resorts’ accessibility problem
With the exception of the Cairngorms, which is well served by Aviemore, and possibly Glencoe, which is on a regular bus route, it is almost impossible to gain access to Scottish ski resorts without owning (or hiring) a car. Let’s look at the resorts in the east first, before moving to the west.
Glenshee is situated 10 miles (~16 km) beyond Braemar, which is the final stop on the Royal Deeside tour. There is nothing beyond that. If you are dependent on public transport, Glenshee is completely out of the question, as the only way there is to hire a taxi from Braemar, which would add GBP26 (~USD32) each way, i.e. GBP52 (~USD65) for each day of skiing. There is a private hire bus laid on by a ski club in Glasgow, but if you are not in that area, and presumably not a member of the club, this is out of the question.
The Lecht is even further off the beaten track, as the resort is more than 16 miles (~26 km) from Ballater on the B976, one of the highest roads in the country. There is no public transport across the pass at all. A taxi from Ballater would cost at least GBP40 (~USD50) each way, or over GBP80 (~USD100) per day of skiing. This would render it completely out of the question for many. There is no rail access to either the Glenshee or The Lecht resorts at all. The nearest railway station is in Aberdeen, approximately 53 miles (~85 km) away from the nearer of the two.
Glencoe fares slightly better. Being on the A82, it is on the route of the Glasgow to Fort William bus, which stops right outside the door. However the nearest railway station (Bridge of Orchy) is 13 miles (~21 km) away.
The Nevis Resort is seven miles (~11 km) from Fort William, which is served by rail. Nevis is the adventure sports capital of the UK, and one could reasonably expect good transport links right to the door, but this is not the case. Despite the fact it is also situated along the route of the A82, there is no bus connection to it, as it is seven miles (~11 km) off the arterial road. There is a family-owned bus company that connects the town to the resort. However, for a resort of this reputation, at the epicentre of adventure sports in the UK, this offers a very poor service. It all goes to reinforce the belief that access to one’s own means of transport is a prerequisite to engaging in these sports; that skiing is an elitist activity for the haves, not the have-nots.
While Scotland has amazing skiing and winter sports facilities that are enjoyed by tourists from all over the world, there are serious issues with accessibility for Scots. The assumption that we all own our own vehicles is a serious hindrance to those of us who, for whatever reason, don’t. The reason could be as simple as the lack of financial means to run a car or even to hire one. Or it could be for medical reasons, such as epilepsy; an entirely ‘invisible’ condition that carries with it an automatic ban on holding a driving licence unless it is controlled by medication. Also read Chris Greenwood’s “Good Tourism” Insight “Why VisitScotland declared a climate emergency …” The reason might even be because some Scots think VisitScotland and the Scottish government are correct in declaring a ‘climate emergency’; that affordable, efficient, low-emissions public transport for everyone is a worthy goal. Scottish ski resorts’ accessibility is something that VisitScotland, the resorts themselves, and the body in charge of winter sports in Scotland (Snowsports Scotland) need to address. Improving access would go a long way to opening up Scottish ski resorts to the wider Scottish public, reducing the resorts’ dependence on jet-setting skiers and winter sports enthusiasts, and reducing Scotland’s dependence on cars.
This article first appeared as an Insight in The Good Tourism Blog on 9 May 2023